Here's the parts list I worked off of when getting read for my swap. The list was updated as I went along but has remained sorta static over time. Visit http://forums.delphiforums.com/tacomaterritory and search around the Extreme/Hardcore section for a TON of information about the SAS. More than you'll find on ANY webpage around.
This list was originally compiled by Chuck and posted on the TTORA board. I've thrown in a lot of comments along the way and added a few important things as well.

My Truck Status
Feb, 2002, 10k mi later (65000)

I've since upgraded to RS9000s up front and I love the ride. Did anyone hear about my shackle hangar tearing off? Oh, well it was. We've got a really good bandaid on it right now but soon enough we'll be torching that crap off and building a stronger shackle hangar. For those doing this, you need to plate the frame for the shackle hangar just like you do the for the steering box. It WILL tear off. Mine did (although not completely, I did have a hole in my frame).

My ARB is holding up quite well. Sucker works like a charm with the power tank powering it.

The rear end is still quite stiff without a TON of weight in the bed. I'm thinking of pulling the second leaf from the top and replacing it with the second leaf from my tacoma pack. Genius? hardly, but it might work to loosen this thing up a bit while still retaining enough stiffness to not need a trac bar.

You cannot run rancho shocks upside down. They develop a dead spot. Luckily it goes away when you turn them back can-side down. I've proven this myself.

That's all for now. I'll bbl to write more.
My words of advice: This costs more than you think. Even more than you think you think it might cost. Do NOT forget to buy your nuts and bolts, your fluids, everything! It will bust your budget BIG TIME if you don't include it. Don't forget the gas it costs to drive to the junkyard to buy your parts. TAX! SHIPPING! Food and drinks for those that help you. The price is high but the rewards are... well, they speak for themselves.

Important People (in no particular order)

Links of major interest:

The price so far: Somehwere close to $5000
Estimated total: $1400000000000.00

The Grocery List

front hanger Will be custom made by AJ.

rear hangers Will be custom made by AJ.

Front springs Ordered the AllPros for $275. Rancho 44044s. Maybe not. Possibly the AllPro front long travel springs with 5" lift for $275.

Rear springs. I'm running these with a 4" drop hangar, 6" shackle and 2.5" block for a combined total of 10" lift over stock. I'm using my tacoma overload to allow more stuffing. I'm thinking of replacing some of the chevy leaves with my thinner (softer) tacoma leaves. However, the chevy pack is already VERY soft. However, axle wrap is minimal (if not less than stock) and a traction bar is not required with the setup I have. I got the 63s at the sacramento pnp. I got last pair. Your options: Chevy 63s? Alcans? AllPros for $375?

ubolts Get a flip kit of some sort for the rear. Originally I used the allpro one, it worked fine. But when I added the block I used Rancho ones as part of their block kit for chevys. If you use the rancho ubolts get the ubolt plate as well. The chevy bolts are wider than toyota ones so the ubolts dont fit comfortably in the toy plate. The rancho ubolts are super beefy and the nuts have nylon thread locker things in them. I recommend them if youre going to run a block. Get your front ubolts with your axle. You will thank me for this advice come the cutting.

ubolt plates Get the front ubolt plates with the ubolts you take with your axle. The rear ones will come with your flip kit or block kit.

Shock towers Mine will be custom made by AJ. I've heard stories of the ford towers not being good. Rockstomper makes a decent set of weld together ones. Mike used these.

shocks (all 4) RS 5012s rear, 9012s front. Rides great. 19" compressed, 33" extended for a total of 14" of travel!

weld on shock mounts for the axle. These can be made. It's not that hard.

weld on spring pads for the axle (if not already setup) Just buy them. Measure the OD on your axle. It's going to be like 2.75 or 3.

shackles Just make them. It's not that hard.

bolts for springs, shackles, shocks, etc... Buy them before the weekend starts. And buy a few extra. You'll need them.

D44 axle-- w/ flattop knuckles, cut downt o 62", 6 lug bolt pattern. Got the axle with normal knuckles for $183 from picknpull in Stockton. Vehicle was a 1987 Wagoneer. Axle is 60.5" WMS to WMS. I still need a yoke for this cuz someone stole mine. Got a used yoke off of ebay for $8 + shipping

brakes Came on axle in good condition. Replaced calipers and pads to find that the brakes pull to one side. Swapped rotors from left to right (and right to left) and truck still pulled same direction. I think one of the calipers isn't working right. I'm going to try to return it to kragen sometime soon. Update, I plan to replace the entire brake system again. I'm going to get new rotors since one is obvious mucked up. And while I'm at it I'm going to do the calipers since they're cheap. And since I've gone that far, I'm going to can the pads at the same time. Hardcore!

brake lines around $100 shipped from 4wpw. Just get the Tacoma extended procomp ones. See if you can get them custom made cheaper though. And unless you have to, don't buy from 4wpw. They're asses. But they are cheaper, so use their price to get a better deal from somewher else (Central 4wd?)

lug nuts to match your rim style The part number Yogi mentions below does -not- fit smoothly into the stock waggy stuff. In fact it doesn't fit at all. I returned mine and used stock studs. Yogi says: Replace the Wag 7/16 studs with Dorman 610-264. These new studs are longer and are the same size as the Toyota studs. That way you can keep the same lug nuts front and rear. I had to do this becasue the Wag studs are too short for my wheels. (Eagle 289's) Bob says: Hmm. I wonder about this one. I'll compare this with what Steve has to do. I plan on running the generic "RockCrawler" rims so I wonder if the studs really need replacing. I'll look into it.

tie rod Ive got rock rods. I forget the length.

drag link Don't order from extreme gear. He's an ass and incredibly unreliable. I used rockrods. Still somewhat unreliable but atleast he got them to me.

Flattop knuckles (drilled, tapped). TREs, DLE, D44 Master Rebuild Order from Parts Mike (530.885.0673) I had invoice #11386 for Mikes reference when ordering same parts. 2 flat top knuckles all prettied up with ball joints($250) (I may have been quoted a little low. Your price may be higher) 3 tie rod ends and 1 drag link end ($160) Dana 44 master rebuild kit ($81) machining, Drilling, Tapping passenger side knuckle 2 bent (15 degree) Hysteer arms ($160+) 2 1/2" washers (unknown price) All associated nuts, washers, and cotter pins (included) Shipping ($22) Tax ($45.57 - didn't I pay taxes on my pay check. this is killing me). Total: $718.57 Parts received 8.7.2001 in excellent condition. I recommend parts mike to everyone who needs these parts. Parts mike was a great help throughout my parts ordering process and again, I recommend him to anyone who needs these parts.

IFS box, IFS box mount -custom Yes, you're not nuts, the going price is $150. That's what I paid for mine. The box mount is custom and should be made big and curvy to increase the surface area as well as the amount of weld on the frame. Be sure to sleeve the frame as well. I've heard that toy dismantlers? In san jose has a lot of these. I might pick up a trail spare at the same time. Chuck says to get the steering shaft as well because the tacoma one has little tiny u-joints and just doesn't look very trail-friendly. I called toy dismantlers today. Talked to some dude with limited english who wanted "your number." So I gave him my phone number. "No, the number on the box" "I don't have the box in front of me" "Well go out and look and get me the number" "You need a part number? you can't just look for a steering box?" "No, not a part number, the number, I need the number and then I can help you" "That's ridiculous" "What?" "That's ridiculous" "Ok, Thank you" <hangup> I won't be buying my box from there, if he even has one. 10k mi later my steering is getting sloppier. I think it's the box. I'm going to order a rebuild kit soon I think. Do yourself a favor and rebuild the POS before you do the swap.

DOM to sleeve your frame for the IFS box. This simply is a sleeve to sleeve the frame so that the bolts don't crush your frame.

Pitman insert (if going w/ chevy rod ends) Got from FROR. Cost me $50 cuz I needed it overnighted and COD. Buy before the week before you need it and it won't cost so much.

powersteering lines Going to get stock powersteering fittings at the rack braized to work with the IFS box. Will connect those to custom lines. I'm not going to try and bend mine. The lines are only like $45. Yogi says: After looking at the stock power steering lines..and seeing how Robert's lines were setup. All you need to do is straighten out the stock lines and bend them to run up toward the power steering box. I did this over the weekend and they fit perfect! No need to have new ones made! Bob says: This sounds similar to something Chuck was telling me yesterday.

vacuum caps Chuck says: local auto store..$3 I still haven't put these on, 10k mi later. I jsut folded the hose back a few times and zip tied it. Whatever.

rag joint for IFS box Chuck says: Will be attached to the end of an IFS box shaft. Has a little u-joint in it. You'll need 2 shafts w/ two joints to compensate for the severe angle that the original rack n pinion shaft was at. Pick your joint carefully. A worn joint will suck.

3/4" DOM for your steering shaft. I think I ended up using 5/8" rod

(2) stock 86 & up 4wd steering shafts Got a box side half of the steering shaft from an 87 steering box and got the same side from an old datsun. Basically just going to use the u-joints and make custom length shafts. Bob asks: You mean one shaft from the steering wheel to the firewall and one shaft from the firewall to the box? Or are these the same part? Chuck answers: Same part from the firewall to the box. will have a u-joint end w/ a female spline and then a long shaft w/ a male spline.

3/4" bearing for DOM to pass thru at firewall

Front drive shaft I made a square shaft. Pictures in the SAS section of my pictures. Total cost around $50. Will order after everything is done so that I can get accurate measurements. Will order from Jesse at high angle.

The collection of T100 oil pan parts Oil Pan - 12101-65030 ($91.81) Strainer (pickup tube) 15104-62060 ($34.68) Gasket (for pickup tube) 15147-62020 ($1.34) Dipstick 15301-62060 ($8.12) Guide Tube 11452-62060 ($11.52) Union 90405-10033 ($3.48) order from James at eToyotas. (281) 296-5230 ordered. Shipping 7/19. Total 169.71 Yogi says: When getting the oil pan parts dont forget to order the "union" that goes inbetween the bottom of the dip stick tube and the hole in the block. It looks just like the plug that is there currently... except is has a hole that passes all they way through it. Without the union the dipstick tube will not fit! See pic below of the Union Bob says: In the oil pan parts list the Union was not originally in the list. I added it after Yogi posted the part number Picture from Yogi

a bunch of nuts/ bolts/ washers.

ARB for rear taco 8.4" Finally got the ARB installed and regeared. ARBs rule! Thing is still not here on 8.27.2001. ARB says it has left Australia but that it hasn't made it to ARBUSA yet. bah. This is holding up my regear until later. Whatever. Saves me $850 for now. I GOT ONE!! $574.81 to door . Ordered 8.9.2001. James says will be here in < 2 weeks. Is being drop shipped right from ARB. I'm SO excited!! Going to be really hard to find. Thinking of just going with LS instead. James at Sterling is selling for $550. I'm going to run the ARB off of my powertank I did this using a switch and some little dohickeys from my local clippard.com distributor. The guy in willcall helped me out big time. Cost something like $14 for the whole setup and I don't have any electric switches, it's all pneumatic.

4.88 Gears for rear axle to be installed at same time as ARB Found this on TTORA board one day: http://members.home.net/chiplinthicum/diffpartprices.htm 4.88 gears for front. Need new carrier as well. Stock gears are ~3.50-something Gears will be bought from and installed at River City Diffs (916.852.7109). Here's the price estimate: Bearing kit for Tacoma ($95) (didn't use, diff had 30k on it (thanks chuck)) Tacoma R&P ($175) D44 R&P ($165) Open carrier for D44 ($50) Labor for D44 ($140) Labor for Taco w/ARB ($200) Total install (-cost of ARB): $825 This was actually much cheaper. When Sean saw how far disassembled the front was he cut some cash off. I believe the labor on the rear was cheaper as well since I brought him just a third and an ARB in a box. Yogi says: If you go with a full detroit or ARB for the front you will not need a carrier for 3.92 and up gears. Just make sure when you purchase the locker that you tell them its going to be for 4.88 gears. Bob says: I'm going to skimp on costs early on and skip the front locker to start with. I will eventually run an ARB up front. To get started I'm only going to run an ARB in the rear. I need to have a locker I can turn off front and back because I do "daily driving" in the snow/ice as well.

new warn premium hubs $77. $4 shipping. Be sure to mention TTORA when calling Oakland store (like it matters). PN is (i think) 20990. Svc kit is 20825.