So everyone knows that there's no way in hell this whole SAS thing went without a hitch. And you're right. So let's start off in the beginning with the first problem I can recall:

Front shackle hangar tearing

This problem has been experienced not only by me but by the infamous R. Canon as well as Steve N.. It appears to be caused by the combination of a thin-walled frame and an improperly braced hangar.

The best solution to the picture shown is to grind off the existing hangar and build a new one that wraps around the frame more. Of most importance seems to be to build the gusset that goes up the inside of the frame rail all of the way to the top of the rail. You should also try to plate the frame rail to the best of your ability. I know, I know, the frame curves right there. But do your best and plate it in a similar manner to the way you will plate your steering box. So nice long welds to distribute the pressure evenly. Although not quiet apparent to an inexperienced builder, a lot of stress is placed on the shackles when steering; especially from a standstill. The shackles will move quite a bit from side to side. And with longer shackles the forces are increased. So don't just build a wimpy hangar like I did. Build it right the first time.

Also, the way I found that my shackle hangar was tearing off was from a clicking/popping sound when I turned. The shackles would move like I described above and they would pull the frame with it. In my case I had a tear so large that the tear was "popping" in and out of it's original location. Also watch for a crack along the bottom of the frame rail. Right along the weld is where mine started cracking.

After doing some minimal plating to the top of the frame rail and then extending a gusset from the existing gusset up to the top of the new plating I have been able to eliminate all shackle hangar problems. This is the cheap fix.

Steering shaft is a POS

That's right. My steering shaft, part Toy and part Datsun is a POS. The U-joints (2) are out of phase which gives a "hard" spot in the steering rotation and the u-joints are old and worn out which leaves me with a lot of play in the steering. On a windy day on the freeway this lovely little truck turns into a beast.

There are at least two solutions to this problem. The first is to head back out to the junkyard and find a decent looking toyota steering shaft and replace mine with it. The second option is to buy a fancy custom made shaft from someone like borgeson. I still haven't fixed mine. I also have yet to find a vendor other than borgeson that sells shafts of that nature.

Changing the dipstick location with the T-100 pan

To get the plug out of the block you need to do it with the pan off. Find the hole that the plug is plugging on the bottom of the block and insert a properly sized punch. Use that to knock out the punch. Then put the union in (one of the parts you were supposed to buy with your oilpan). You'll need to press it in. We used a really long metal rod for Mike's setup. I didn't change my dipstick. To put the dipstick tube in it bolts somewhere around the Alternator. Good luck.

I did my dipstick setup by simply trimming my stock dipstick and using it in the stock location. This seems to work just fine. I either have oil or I don't. It's not like Toyota motors burn oil.

Tie rod clearing springs with high steer

I currently run a 1/2" spacer under my steering arms which have a 15 degree bend over the last 1.5" or so of the arm. This clears a 1.5" thick spring pack just fine. Unfortunately, the stock waggy spring pack is closer to 2" than to 1.5" and therefore causes a problem. The exact problem is that the tie rod end on the pass. side hits the spring when turning left. This is corrected by either getting new steering arms with more clearance or by getting/building a thinner leaf pack.